CLASS SCHEDULES & PRICING | POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT | COMMON PROBLEMS

See Common Problem Tips below for preventing undesired behaviors or correcting them such as house-training, jumping, digging, biting, etc.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Classes, Private Sessions & Board/Train Programs:

Class Reservations - To reserve a spot in class, send a Sign Me up for Class form  along with proof of vaccinations and a check payable to: Cool Dog Training, Inc.  First come, first serve. You are welcome to drop off your paperwork at our front desk or in our drop box after hours. We will e-mail a confirmation. Sorry, no refunds once you have committed to a spot in class.

Cool Dog I - Puppy Socialization Class
Age Requirement: Join anytime if your puppy is between the age of 8 and 16 weeks old. 
Attend twice a week until we graduate your puppy (based on good playing skills).
Please bring copies of vaccination records from your vet or breeder. Puppies need to have at least one vaccination.
Cost of Class: $100 

Held every Saturday 9:30-10:30 a.m. and Wednesday 6:30-7:30 p.m. Attend both days.
Bring record of vaccinations to date, a collar and leash (no retractable leashes please). 

Course Description: This class will teach you and your puppy two very important things to prepare them for a good life:  1.) Good bite inhibition - never to cause harm to another with their teeth;  2.) Good social skills - learning how to be confident and not fearful of dogs, humans (and all that go along with humans like what we wear, what we ride, what we hold in our hands), sounds (fireworks and thunder) and touch (vet exams and others wanting to pet them).

When puppies play in this off leash class, they learn how NOT to apply pressure when their mouth is on another. This important life lesson means you will have peace of mind when your dog matures and is around people, especially children. Puppies must learned this skill NOW with other puppies and by practicing good play with humans. Good bite inhibition (or bad bite inhibition) is practiced for life.

Socialization is learned before your puppy turns 4 months old. Unfortunately it cannot be easily corrected for older puppies/adults. When adult dogs fear bite it is usually because they don't understand what something/someone is or the way they move. Biting usually occurs as a dog gains confidence between 1 to 2 years in human years (15 to 24 years in dog years). Puppies typically don't show fear aggression. Puppies are programmed to explore their environment up to 4 months of age to determine what is safe or dangerous. If they have not had the opportunity to explore and deem it safe in their early years then it is assumed dangerous later in life and they may act on it - with fear biting! So it is important for puppies to have lots and lots of positive experiences since these early experiences are etched in their brains for life. 

In class, puppies play off-leash with other puppies. They learn to read body language and develop communication skills. This does not come naturally to dogs. If not learned early on, most dogs will over react (bark and/or lunge) when they see another dog since they cannot read the other dog's intentions through body language. So that means taking your dog for a walk could become challenging and difficult to control whenever he sees another dog, even if the other dog is friendly. Or your dog may over react when a dog passes by the house. When they know how to read another dogs body language they are confident and not fearful making your life with your dog pleasant. Ideally, puppies need to play off-leash with 25 different puppies and be exposed to adult socialized dogs. Since dogs don't generalize well, 2-4 dogs won't be enough. They need lots of positive experience. 

In summary, this class is about teaching you and your dog the importance of not biting and good socialization skills. The four areas of socialization are: Dog Socialization, People Socialization, Touch Socialization (we pass your puppy around and do mock vet exams so your puppy learns to accept human touch) and Sound Socialization (we play a fireworks CD in class and one may be purchased in our lobby for home use). 

We will give you an education of a lifetime about dogs including house-training, toys, bones, food, avoiding bad habits like jumping, digging, and so much more. Puppies are inside in a clean and safe environment.

IMPORTANT NOTICE:  Until your puppy is fully vaccinated, we recommend you carry your puppy when you take them out of the home except where you KNOW all dogs that have previously been to that area have been vaccinated - like at our facility. Your veterinarian has probably advised you NOT to take your puppy out. Puppies can get sick if exposed to Parvo which is contagious and contracted through the feces of infected dogs. This is a valid concern but you can still socialize your dog adequately with minimal risk to Parvo. Take your puppy out but do it smartly! Carry your pup and let them see, smell and hear what our human environment is about. Viewing out the window of the car is an alternative if your puppy is too big to carry. Do this important socialization as it will pay off greatly! Sadly, fearful dogs are often re-homed or euthanized due to lack of socialization. For more opinions on this subject, please see an open letter from Dr. R.K. Anderson on our Resource Page regarding this important topic.

Print out & implement our Puppy Socialization List.  
Also, learn about Titer Testing an effective alternative to over vaccinating your dog!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cool Dog II - Beginning Good Manners Class
Age Requirement: All ages
Length of Class: six weeks
Cost of Class: $175
Class Size: Limited to four dogs per class

Beginning Thursday, March 18 through April 22, 2010 at 6:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.
Beginning Tuesday, April 6 through May 11, 2010 at 6:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.
Beginning Saturday, April  10 through May 16, 2010 at 1 p.m. - 2 p.m.

What to bring: proof of vaccinations (Distemper & Parvo or Titer Test , Rabies, Bordetella due every six months), nylon or leather collar, leash (no retractable leashes please), tasty easy-to-chew treats. And a hungry dog – perhaps skip one meal before class.

Course Description: This semi-private class will teach dog owners how to prevent common behavior problems and learn ten cues for good habits at home. Cues include the basics: sit, down, watch, wait at doors and before taking food, stay, release, go to place, off, heel, & come.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cool Dog III - Mastering Good Manners As a Lifestyle Class
Age Requirement: five months and older
Prerequisite Class: Cool Dog II - Beginning Good Manners
Length of Class: four weeks
Cost of Class: $150
Class Size: Limited to four dogs per class.

Beginning Friday, March 5 through  March 26, 2010 at 6:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.

What to bring: proof of vaccinations (Distemper & Parvo or Titer Test , Rabies, Bordetella due every six months), nylon or leather collar, leash (no retractable leashes please), towel, tasty easy-to-chew treats. And a hungry dog – perhaps skip one meal before class.

Course Description: In this class you will practice what you have learned in CDII and the numerous useful ways to use cues you have taught your dog. It will prepare you and your dog for American Kennel Club  Canine Good Citizen Program, or Love on a Leash Program.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cool Dog IV - Mastering Good Manners with Distractions Class
Age Requirement: five months and older
Prerequisite Class: Cool Dog II - Beginning Good Manners
Length of Class: six weeks
Cost of Class: $200
Class size: Limited to ten dogs per class

Beginning Sunday, April 11 through May 23 (no class on Mother's Day May 9), at 5:00 - 6:00 p.m.

What to bring: proof of vaccinations (Distemper & Parvo or Titer Test, Rabies, Bordetella due every six months), nylon or leather collar, leash (no retractable leashes please), tasty easy-to-chew treats. And a hungry dog – perhaps skip one meal before class.

Course Description: This class is held outside at our training center and in a local park near a roller-skate rink, children's playground, and people cooking outdoors. Your dogs will practice the ten cues they have already mastered in a home environment.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cool Dog V - Advanced Off-leash Good Manners Class
Age Requirement: five months and older
Prerequisite Class: Cool Dog II, III, IV required
Length of Class: six weeks
Cost of Class: $300

Beginning Sunday, March 7 through April 28, at 8:00 - 9:00 a.m. 

What to bring: proof of vaccinations (Distemper & Parvo or Titer Test, Rabies, Bordetella due every six months), nylon or leather collar, leash, tasty, easy-to-chew treats. And a hungry dog – perhaps skip one meal before class.

Course Description: This semi-private class (limited to four dogs per class) will teach dog owners how to control their dogs off leash. Held at our center on three and half-acre fenced area. Many new cues are covered.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Tricks" Class
Age Requirement: five months and older
Prerequisite Class: Beginning Good Manners Class
Length of Class: 4 weeks
Cost of Class: $100 per Class

Beginning Saturday, March 27, through April 17, 2010 at 11:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m.

Course Description: Teach your dog how to Shake, Balance and Catch the Treat off of Nose, Rollover, Fetch, Kisses, Say Your Prayers, Get the Flea, Speak, Smack Lips, Sneeze and more.

What to bring: proof of vaccinations (Distemper & Parvo or Titer Test, Rabies, Bordetella due every six months), nylon or leather collar, leash (no retractable leashes please), small easy to chew treats. And a hungry dog – perhaps skip one meal before class.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"All People are Valuable Resources" Class
Age Requirement: five months and older
Prerequisite Class: Private Evaluation with Instructor Lynne Sorrentino
Length of Class: Ongoing, join anytime with reservations.
Cost of Class: $20 per Class

Call for a reservation.

What to bring: proof of vaccinations (Distemper & Parvo or Titer Test, Rabies, Bordetella due every six months), nylon or leather collar, leash (no retractable leashes please), small easy to chew treats. And a hungry dog – perhaps skip one meal before class.

All dogs must undergo a private evaluation with Lynne before attending this class. (See below under Private Evaluation/Consultations.) Only fear diagnosed dogs need this class. This class will not help a dog that is aggressive due to being possessive, territorial, or aggressive toward other dogs.  Lynne has other programs that will help eliminate these aggressions. For this class all dogs must be in a wire-basket style muzzle. One may be purchased at www.dogmuzzle.com (be sure to follow the measuring instructions to insure a good fit.) Once you receive the muzzle please follow the "Instructions for Teaching your Dog to Wear a Muzzle Happily" before setting up your first class reservation. Contact us with any questions.


For Private Sessions & Board and Train Programs 
Please call to discuss your individual needs and to book an appointment with Lynne Sorrentino, Behaviorist and Trainer.


Private Evaluation/Consultation Sessions
All private consultations are held with Behaviorist Lynne Sorrentino. Lynne uses positive reinforcement techniques to help alter the way dogs view things and react. The fee for private consultations is $200 per case. This includes two sessions which are typically 1 - 1 1/2 hours. A histroy profile, evaluation and consultation will be done. You will be given exercises to do at home to assist in changing the unwanted behavior. The second session is a follow up to be sure that we are meeting our goals. Sometimes a third session is needed for a fee of $50. Evaluations are done at our facility where a fair assessment can be made with your dog in a neutral environment. On-going phone consultations included.

Some examples of cases that need private consultation include:

Dogs that are being introduced into an existing home with dogs and/or children.
Dogs that need added help with learning basic obedience/manners.
Dogs that over-react to other dogs.
Dogs that fight with other dogs in their environment.
Dogs that are showing signs of aggression to people (growling, barking, lunging, snapping).
Dogs that have had toilet training problems.
Dogs that escape the yard.
Dogs that need to be around horses or other live stock.

Please call to schedule an appointment - ph. 951.676.9622.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In-Home Private Training Session
We will come to your home for Beginning Good Manners or Behavior Modification. Most in-home training needs three visits. Our fee is $275 and includes three visits within a 15 mile radius of Temecula. This fee includes all the questions you can throw our way for the life of your dog! Give us a call to review what education is needed for your dog and reserve an appointment time.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Reading Your Dog's Body Language" Private Session
Set up a private consultation to learn how to read what your dog is saying. 
Take the quiz on our home page to see how many different ways dogs "talk" with their bodies. 
Bring your answers along with your dog. Multi family dogs welcome. It's fun and very educational! 

Cost of Consultation: $75 per 1 hour session.
Or, bring a friend and their dog for a fee of $50 per family.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Board and Train Program
This program is intended to help with behavior problems that you can't seem to get past on your own due to time constraints, a particularly stubborn personality in your dog or you just need results fast. Your dog will be boarded and worked by Lynne throughout the day during their stay. Some behaviors that this program is intended for:

Leash pulling
Chasing cars, skateboards, bicycles, or joggers
Over reacting to other dogs
House training
Doesn't listen to cues given (excessively stubborn) - especially on recalls (come)
Barks and is over stimulated when visitors arrive at your home

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Using Positive Reinforcement Techniques
In the dog-training profession, positive reinforcement has become the only acceptable method for training family dogs these days. Long gone are the days of intimidating our pets and acting like alpha dogs ourselves. We have evolved – and thank goodness! Positive reinforcement involves the presentation of a good consequence when the dog has performed (for example, you say, "come," the dog comes, and you offer a treat or some good playtime). It increases the likelihood that the behavior will occur in the future. Another way of saying this is, "dogs do what works for them." If we make it worth their while a few times in the beginning and continue to practice they generally pick up the behavior as a habit and do it with some consistency. Everyone has fun – your dog and you.

Common Problems
(correcting them, or better yet, avoiding them altogether...)

Housetraining 
Dogs create toilet preferences by surface. Grass and carpet are the two favorites because they are absorbent. Did the breeder have the puppy on grass? Consistency and repetition creates a desire for one surface – take your dog out routinely (or see below how to bring a toilet indoors for your puppy). If you do this right, your puppy will want to use only the outside for potty by the age of five months.

Bladders don't mature until they are 5 months old so your puppy will need to potty often.
At 8-12 weeks old, take your puppy outside every 2-3 hours.
At 12-16 weeks old, take your puppy outside every 3-4 hours.
At 16-20 weeks old, take your puppy outside every 4-5 hours.

At 5-6 months old, if your puppy is doing good this far, your pup can learn to hold it's bladder for 6-7 hours at a stretch provided they haven't drank a lot of water due to exercise or warm temperatures. To help your puppy go all night without having to get up and go potty, consider restricting water intake at night by picking up the water bowl at 6:00 or 7:00 p.m. Of course, if your dog is playing hard or it's unusually hot your dog will need a drink after these hours so he does not get dehydrated.

Crate training helps your dog learn how to exercise bladder control since they don't want to potty where they sleep. Without crate training most pups will potty as soon as they feel pressure in their bladder regardless of where they are - inside or outside. So crate training is good for this reason. Crate training is also good because dogs need to be crated from time to time, like at the vet's office. Or you may choose to crate your dog routinely at night and throughout your dog's life which is fine if your dog learns to like his crate. Let your dog out of the crate every 3 hours to stretch unless its at night. So teaching your puppy that crates are safe and relaxing is a good thing.  

Teaching your dog how to enjoy the crate:
We want dogs to think their crate is the happiest place on earth! So put Kongs, chews, toys, and food in the crate. Consider feeding your dog his meals in the crate. Never put your dog in a crate as punishment or when angry! They will learn to hate the crate. Don't open the crate door when dog is crying or pawing at door to get out. Open when he is quiet. Teach your dog to go in for treats – throw one to the back, feed the second through closed door. If dog has an accident in the crate, perhaps your crate is too large and your puppy has figured out to use the back as a toilet - away from him. If this is the case, make the crate smaller by putting a partition in the back or if one is not provided with the crate put a box in the back. Clean the crate thoroughly with white vinegar as it will effectively remove the smell of urine for your dog. As a side note: most puppies will chew up their bedding. In my opinion, puppies are young and their bodies do not need a cushy bed in their crate perhaps just a towel to keep them warm.

For added success in house training your puppy, teach him how to ring a bell to go outside. Once your dog has a preference for going potty outside they will need a vehicle to let you know when they need out. This life-long habit is very helpful  and effective since you will be able to hear the bell and know to let your dog out. Otherwise, dogs will stand at the door quietly hoping you see them and when we don't, accidents happen. Or you are continually looking at the door to see if your dog is standing there waiting to go outside. A bell is unmistakable and convenient. If you travel with your dog, consider keeping a bell in your car so you can hang it on the doors of friend's houses, hotels, etc.

Teaching your dog how to ring the bell:
Tie a jingle-bell onto a string and hang on the door knob, at nose level. Each time you take your puppy out, pull the bell away from the door and let it bounce back making it ring. Say "outside" and open the door. When your dog rings the bell on his own, run to the door (don't walk), open it and say "outside." Each and every time your dog rings the bell he should find himself outside. This will create the association BELL=OUTSIDE. If your puppy is playing with the bell too often, put it away until you take your puppy outside. 

ACCIDENTS HAPPEN.  DO NOT REPRIMAND YOUR PUPPY! 
Your puppy doesn't understand what you're upset about! There is no association between the outdoors/grass and you screaming at your puppy. What they learn when you yell or put their nose in it is "Gee my owner doesn't like my pee/poop but when I go behind the sofa it's okay. So as long as they don't see me doing it, its okay." And so they learn to hide their potty activity. Sometimes puppies learn to eat their poop because they think we are upset about the poop itself - again they are not thinking of the outdoors as there is no association whatsoever when we are reprimanding them. If you see your puppy squatting in the house, say "Outside!" and calmly pick him up and walk him on to the grass and say "Go Potty."  Then follow up with a praise after your puppy's bladder is completely empty with a "Good Boy/Girl."

When accidents happen, and they WILL happen, clean with white vinegar. The white vinegar gets the smell out for dogs. Use paper towel to soak up urine and then poor the vinegar over the spot. Use enough to get down into the padding. For a pee spot the size of a quarter, for example, use 1/4 cup of white vinegar and let it soak in for 10 minutes. Then use more paper towel to absorb the vinegar.  If you don't clean with white vinegar, dogs will be able to smell it in the carpet and they have a "knee-jerk" type of reaction - i.e. "Oh, I smell a toilet" and squat automatically.

A note about Puppy Pads.  Don't use them. Since dogs learn to go on specific surfaces i.e. grass, concrete, etc. - you are teaching your dog to pee on fabric (cotton & polyester). I have heard of many dogs peeing on their owner's bedding / sheets (cotton & polyester) because they have been taught to use this surface as their toilet. If you want the convenience of using a toilet indoors, read below.

How an exercise pen can make your life easy!
When I get a puppy or am retraining an older dog, I get two exercise pens. One for indoors and one for outdoors on the grass. The outdoor one helps keep my puppy out of trouble - i.e. chewing on plants, sprinkler heads, digging, etc. The indoor pen also keeps the puppy from chewing on inappropriate items, stealing objects, and constantly demanding attention. Remember, puppies learn life-long habits - good and bad - when they are young. So if you don't let them to get into trouble or continually pester you when young they don't think to do these things when they grow up. Put the indoor ex pen in the corner of a room where the puppy can see you most of the time like in the far corner of the family room. Dogs hate to be isolated so avoid using the laundry room or a bathroom. Line the floor of the exercise pen with a heavy 3 mil plastic drop cloth like painter's use. If the puppy pees on the plastic the urine travels to the puppy's paws and they hate getting their paws wet with urine. Buy a strip of sod and cut it to fit into a pan or cat litter box. I like using a plastic resin side patio table upside down because it is sturdy and easy to handle when taking out to hose off. After putting the sod into the container, in the beginning, put small pieces of your dogs poop along the edges of the sod to give your dog the idea that it is a toilet and not something to play with. Hose off and rotate sod pieces daily. You will need to purchase new sod every 1-2 weeks. The sod, drop cloth and plastic resin side patio table can typically be purchased at a Home Depot or Lowe's. Restrict access to carpet/rugs unless your puppy has just eliminated and then allow access for only 10-15 minutes. Dogs two favorite surfaces to eliminate on are grass and carpet because they are absorbent. Now that you have an indoor potty and are teaching your puppy to eliminate on grass, you don't have to take your puppy out when you need to leave the house or put your attention elsewhere. You can do this guilt free! For your puppy's comfort, put his crate in the ex pen and leave the door open for napping. Be sure to leave water and plenty of toys in there too. All of your puppy's needs are being met! And you are teaching your puppy good habits - i.e. how NOT to be destructive with household items, soil carpets/rugs, and continually demand your attention. What a Cool Dog!

Mouthy
Teach puppies early on - no teeth on skin! If you do this right, you will never have to worry about your dog biting a person or another dog. This is called "Good Bite Inhibition" and they must learn it when they are young puppies. Don't play with your puppy unless you have a toy or you will become the toy because dogs play with their mouths. If your puppy puts teeth on skin, no matter how hard, say "OUCH" and walk away to the far side of the room for 3 seconds. Act like they truly hurt you, then turn and ask "where's your toy?" Go and get a toy with your puppy and resume play until teeth contact skin again and repeat the process. Practice this routinely and set up a training session by repeating this 5-10 times in a row every day for a week and your puppy will learn not to put teeth on skin. Yeah! If your puppy keeps jumping and snapping at you while you walk away, use an exercise pen and lean over to play or use a tie-down, a leash tied to a chair, and practice over and over again. (Never leave a puppy unattended on a tie-down.) This teaches your dog to go get a toy to initiate play. And more importantly, don't bite people!

Nipping at Clothing
Stand still like you were a fence post and redirect your dog to a toy. Do not pull on whatever your dog is grabbing (like your pant leg) as this starts the tug-o-war game. If your puppy is continually doing this consider putting your puppy safely away in an exercise pen to ward off bad behavior like this.

Aggressive Biting, Growling, and Snapping
Set up an evaluation with us. We need to see if your dog's aggression is triggered by fear of people, fear of other dogs, frustration, lack of leadership-agreement by the owners, food, or taking the alpha role in the household. After the evaluation, follow the recommended steps to start changing your dog's behavior.

Jumping
Do not give your dog any attention for jumping on you. Attention includes eye contact, pushing down with hands, and saying, "no". Instead, turn so that your dog's paws fall to the ground. Keep your arms folded. Don't use arms and hands to push away dogs - they see them as playthings. When all four paws are on the floor, make eye contact with the dog and wait for a sit and then reward the dog with calm praise and a pat on the chest or under the chin. Teach your dog to bring a toy. Dogs do what works, so teach them and make it worth their while. All visitors need to follow the same instructions - consistency is crucial. Dogs do not generalize well. The rules must be the same for all people and in numerous places.

Digging
Observe the location of the digging site. Look for any motivations for the digging such as:

  • Tree/Shrub roots: Remove the tree, put a fence around tree, or fence off that part of the yard.
  • Sprinkler heads: Dogs sometimes dig at these due to over-watering or leaking sprinkler heads – when the ground is wet, your dog's sense of smell is magnified so the curiosity goes deep into the soil.
  • Gopher holes: Take action to exterminate gophers on your own. Fence your dog temporarily to the other side of the yard if using gopher traps that may harm your dog if he digs.
  • Escaping the yard: Find out where the dog is going. Is he bored? Do you walk him every morning – even if it's for only ten minutes? Does he have a playmate down the street? Try feeding your dog's boredom by stuffing or freezing their food inside of Kong dog toys, or use the Kong Time device to dispense Kongs automatically at erratic intervals. He won't want to leave the yard in case a Kong is dispensed. We have more tips on how to build a good fence to keep your dog inside your yard. E-mail us for more information.
  • Is your male dog neutered?  If not – nature is calling and your dog will want to escape the yard by digging or jumping the fence. Consider neutering your male to keep him in the yard and calm.

Stealing
Do not put value on the item by getting angry or chasing the dog. Make an appropriate item that you have appear more fun or valuable. When the dog has lost interest in his item, replace it with the appropriate item. Prevention of the old habit will be key - put things away. Rotated toys keeps interest and value. If your puppy is continually doing this consider putting your puppy safely away in an exercise pen to ward off bad behavior like this.

Free Feeding
Are you leaving your dog's food bowl out all day for your dog to graze on? If so, this is called "Free Feeding." Since it's available all the time, it has little value. From your dog's perspective, the food rains from the sky. It is no big deal. And perhaps even more importantly, you are missing an opportunity twice a day to show your dog that you are his leader. The reason we want to do that is because we like dogs relaxed in our domestic world. Low-status ranking dogs are good family pets. They are not always "on." They can relax and wait for our direction and leadership. Your dog soon realizes that it could not survive without you who provides the food. Feeding on a set schedule will help establish this relationship. Always measure your dog's food per the manufacturer's directions (minus some if you give treats during the day) and put the food bowl down for twenty minutes. Whatever is still in the bowl after that time is food that needs to go back into the food bag or thrown out – it is lost food – your dog doesn't want/need it. Do the same for each meal. Before you know it your dog will love eating each and every meal completely and love you for providing it!

Family Integration
PREPARING FOR BABY'S ARRIVAL
Introduce your dog to as many smells, sights, sounds that are baby related BEFORE the baby arrives home.

  • Smells
    Start using baby shampoo on your own hair. Same with baby powder and any other smells you can think of that the dog will need to become familiar with before baby arrives.
  • Sights
    Finish the nursery early and furnish it with all its toys and goodies sooner rather than later. Take your dog in routinely to get treats. Walk around the nursery and the house with a doll wrapped in a blanket. Rocking it, cooing it. Let the dog sniff the doll whenever the dog wants to and praise the dog for being gentle in a soft voice. 
  • Sounds
    Purchase and play a CD of baby sounds to get your dog used to the noise babies make. "Sounds of Baby" is a good CD and can be purchased at our Training Center in the lobby or can be ordered at www.soundsofbaby.com.

If you do your work right, then your dog will only have to acclimate to one change when baby arrives - the baby itself and not all the other things that can over stimulate the dog's senses and cause stress.


©2008 Cool Dog Training, Inc. --- Phone (951) 676-9622 --- e-mail info@cooldogtraining.com --- site design by 3rd Eye Design